Brakes

The brakes on the car were pretty weak, and there was some fluid leaking from the master cylinder reservoir grommets, so in the interest of safety I decided to tackle the brakes next. Also, since I could not get any fluid to some out of the right read caliper, I knew I wouldn't be able to bleed the lines if I disconnected them to work on the rear end.

New parts are:

• New rear calipers
• Stainless Brake lines (DOT)
• Textar pads front and rear
• New front and rear discs
• New reservoir grommets

Total came to about $550.
I wasn't able to use all of the brake lines, as the line between the rear axle and frame are a PITA to get to, so I figured I'd wait until I drop the rear axle to do those.
Overall, the pedal feel didn't firm up as much as I'd hoped, but I'm sure I'll net more improvement when I get the last section of the brake lines replaced with the stainless ones. Though much of the feel is likely to due with the size of the master cylinder and the overall dated design of the system compared newer BMW braking systems. However, overall braking is much improved. The Textar pads are supposed to be OEM, and they definitely bite like they are. While the pedal is mushier than a newer BMW, the overall braking power seems to be equal to an e46, which is a nice improvement.

Running total: $4175

Back on the road

Finally, all wrapped up, suspension all fixed up and running well. Finished the suspension install last night, car drives great. Doesn't feel like it needs an alignment, and since I'm on the stock wheels with junk tires I won't bother for now. Very solid, not quite handling on rails, but then it's got 14" wheels with junk tires and the stock swaybars, so I don't expect much, but it is very fun to drive. Gone are all the knocks and bumps. When I removed the control arms, one of them was so badly worn that I could move one of the knuckles around with just my hands. No question they were shot, and the shocks appeared to be the original units.

Plus, I got a new surround for the computer and installed it properly, along with the e36 radio, now it looks like a proper interior. Right now I'm just using a tape adapter for the ipod, but will wire in the dice unit later when I get a CD changer cable that works.
Since this picture was taken with a flash, it really shows all of the stains on the carpet, which are a lot less obvious in normal light, though I'll probably shampoo them at some point.

The brakes are ok, I flushed the system but the bleeding screw on the rear passenger caliper didn't leak any fluid, so I will likely need to rebuild or replace that caliper. The discs are definitely very worn, with a significant lip from wear, but the car is stopping well. When I pressurized the system to flush it, there was fluid leaking from below the reservoir, so I will likely need to replace the master cylinder and the seals there at some point, but it's not critical right now, as the brakes are working fine. There is definitely a lot of room for improvement in the braking system, but I'll wait till I decide to completely gut the system and do it all then.

More stuff

Didn't have the tool to press the M3 control arm bushings on, so I had a local shop do it, $50, well worth it.

I also picked up a 97 factory cassette player off ebay, along with the e36 wiring harness for $50. I've soldered it in, so rather than the loose connections of the e30 I have an e36 plug harness. The plan is to plug in the iPod using a Dice adapter, but that will come later. Normally I wouldn't do stereo stuff while the car is not drivable yet, but I couldn't pass up the deal.

I also got 2 pair of Nakamich 5.25" coaxial speakers for $45 each, shipped. Again, too good of a deal to pass it up.

e36 Head Unit $35
e36 Wiring harness $15
speakers $90
pressing in bushings $50

Running total: $3625

Getting started

Here's the big job, parts all here, new front end, springs and shocks. Here's the car ready to start.

Utter stupidity

Here is a monument to my own stupidity.

I purchased a new hinge about 2 weeks ago, knowing the lower hinge pin was broken. So, I got the part, removed the pin, and put in a nice neat plastic bag for when I was ready to fix the passenger door. And put in on the windshield so it would be easy to find.

Well, a couple of days ago I decided to drive the car, came home from lunch to pick it up. And without looking drive off. Now, I've removed the passenger door, a surprisingly simple job....and no hinge pin...moron...now I've gotta order another one before I can put the door back on. Sometimes my own stupidity is just annoying....

Suspension

I was on the phone with a friend of mine this weekend, and while talking to him I realized that I didn't really have a good reason to spend the extra $250-$300 to get Koni shocks vs Bilstein Touring. Plus, if I do decide to get Koni eventually, then I will really be able to judge the difference between the two. So, I went ahead and ordered a set of H&R OE Sport Springs and Bilstein TC shocks. This is the same setup I had on my old 318is and it works well. Not as jittery as Bilstein Sports, and because the OE springs only drop the car about .5-.75", the TC shocks still work with them. This is the last of the major suspension parts needed to tear into that. So once these arrive I'll be able to take care of the biggest fix this car needs.

Cost: $470

Running total: $3435

A mistake, and redemption

Did the valve cover gasket, and did the motor mounts and transmission mounts. As expected, they were badly worn, but what I didn't expect was that both of the lower mount bolts on the motor mounts were missing, so the engine was basically only held in by gravity. This explains why the motor mounts felt so badly. But, after the valve cover gasket and the mounts, I started the car up and it ran very poorly. Couldn't even get down the street without it dying on me. It was late, and I was tired so I just parked it and decided I'd check it out later.
Well, I got the latest shipment of parts from BMW, and figured I'd take a poke at it. Turned out that the intake boot had gone from being a little torn to almost completely split in two. Most likely from rocking the motor when putting the motor mounts in to make sure the engine was centered. Fortunately I'd ordered one in the BMA shipment, so I slapped it on, turned the car over and it tan like a top, even the cold idle runs pretty well. There are a few other hoses that I'll need to take care of , but the engine is running really well now. No odd noises (from the engine), no valve noise, just runs great (well, almost great, still needs a little tuning)