I also finally got around to replacing the fan belts, and putting in Amsoil synthetic 20w50 oil and gear lube. I've been running 20w50 dino oil till now. There is still a slight leak from the front main seal, but I decided to go ahead and do the oil now. Engine seems to like it. Runs nice and smooth. Hard to say if it's a genuine improvement, or s psychological one, but I like it. Shifter is a little smoother. I'd tried Swepco oil before and it made the tranny really notchy, so I went back to synthetic ATF. The Amsoil stuff feels good, probably comparable with Redline.
318is Restoration
Monday, May 16, 2011
Chip and Dip
Ran across a local deal for a new Dinan chip with paperwork for $70, so I picked it up. Not a huge improvement in power, but noticeable. I probably would notice it if I removed it now, but overall the engine is running great.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Got the steering linkage installed. That was the final bit. Steering is dead solid, no slop at all. I was concerned that there might be some slop in the steering rack since I got one from a junk yard, but not at all. I expected it to tighten thing up some, but not as much as it did. Amazing that just a tiny bit of slop can make such a big difference in steering feel.
So, at this point the car is 100% fixed, now, when time permits, I can focus on upgrades. Eventual plans are 15" wheels (ESM or Ronal mesh), koni shocks, and some upgraded sway bars. I also need to add a subwoofer as the 5.25" speakers in the car are definitely overtaxed. Not jumping on these right away, plenty of time, and I need to focus on biking more.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Final step in the steering
Last part of the steering equation. There was still a little slop, and I determined it was coming from the steering linkage. Expected some, but figured it was an easy item to fix later. The only problem right now is that my 535is project (http://535isrestoration.blogspot.com/) is currently occupying the garage while I wait for replacement struts, so I can't put the new linkage in until I get it out of the garage.
I also experimented with a shift lever that I got out of a Z3 in the junk yard. Turns out it's too short for my tastes, so I'm yanking it out and putting the Z3 1.9 lever back in. I'll do this all at once as these are both easy jobs.
Cost: $105 (steering linkage u-joint)
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Back on the road
Got all the big items done. Here's a full list:
Rear end
rear control arm bushings
subframe bushings
final ss brake line segment installed
dif mount
e-brake pads
exhaust hanger
Brake system flush
wheel nut holders
Driveline
center support bearing
guibo
cv boots and clamps
transmission rear nut retainer
transmission shifter seal
transmission Rear main seal
Flush w/Mobile 1 synthetic ATF
Shifter rebuild
Z3 shiftlever
rear carrier bushing/support
delrin front carrier bushings
lever ball socket
shifter washers
support retention clip
Fixed backup light short
Shifter rubber boot
Shifter u-joint and retention pin
Steering
Z3 rack
new tie rod ends
new hp ps hose
New boot clamps (zip ties)
Body
rear quarter side trim & clips
Only significant issue is I have to re-do the power steering fluid return line. The stock line is too short and just doesn't mate up well, and I'd have to bend it to 90 degrees to fix it which would kink it. I'll just cut it off and clamp a reinforced hose to it. Until then the fluid reservoir isn't firmly bolted.
The interior is still not fully assembled as I will install a little dynamat on the rear wheel arches, need to adjust the e-brake, and will check the heater core for leaks. I also want to convert the power window defeat button into a starter kill.
Just got it back from alignment. They tell me I have a "Radial Tire Pull" so I'll rotate the tires and see if that's for real or BS. If it's real I'll have the tire shop replace the tire as it's pretty much new.
Saturday, January 1, 2011
Rust
Pulled up the carpet to cut the firewall for the Z3 steering rack installation and found this:
Don't really want to fuss with it right now, as I'll have to completely pull the carpet, remove the soundproofing, etc... So I just wire brushed what I could see and treated it with a rust eater/inhibitor. Looks like this now:
Will also need to determine the source of the water. The foam under the carpet is a little damp, so I'll probably need to check the heater core and sunroof drains later. Need to get it back on the road first.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Just about completely torn down now. I figured I'd tackle the big items all at once, and there is no shortage of those. Items I found after taking it appart:
CV boots are trashed
Transmission output shaft is leaking
Guibo has significant cracks
Center support bearing is completely shot
The only one that really surprised me is the center support. I would have assumed I would have felt shaking or knocking, but no sign. Here is what it looks like:

Here is a full list of the things that will be done in this stint:
Z3 steering rack
New tie rods/ends
New subframe bushings
New control arm bushings
New CV boots, and repack the CV's
New differential bushing
New guibo
New driveshaft support bearing
Complete shifter linkage rebuild including Z3 shift lever
New transmission output shaft seal and shifter seal
Flush differential, fill with Swepco 201
Flush transmission, fill w/redline MTL
Here is the current state of the garage, quite a mess, but all that's left to remove are the shift linkage support and seals.

Sunday, October 31, 2010
Starting the Big Jobs
It's starting to get wet and cold here in Seattle, well, relatively cold. So I decided to get racking on the rear end rebuild and steering rack. I found a 98 Z3 steering rack at a scrap yard for $120 delivered, got it the other day and it looks to be in good shape and includes the tie rods and ends. I've had the subframe bushings and several other rear end parts lying around, just waiting for me to dig into the back end. I figure it will be more enjoyable if I take my time, working a little bit each day, only until I feel like I've accomplished something.
I decided to drop the entire rear end. The upper fill bolt for the rear differential is a little stripped and I can't get it out with it in the car, so it's a good time to go ahead and take care of all of the rear end parts that need replacing.
Started today. Got it jacked up, exhaust out, and about 80% of the rear end bolts undone. It's been pretty simple so far, the main axle bolts still had the factory retainer in place, and once that was off they came out easy. I decided to stop today when I got to the drive shaft bolts, they are on there pretty good, which is expected, so I'll tackle them later.
I also have a complete shifter rebuild including the Z3 lever on the way, will probably do that now as well.
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